About 78 rpm records

The 78 rpm record was the primary format for music sold during the period from the early 1900s into the 1950s.  The name “78s” only became necessary in the late 1940s, to differentiate them from the newly-introduced 33 1/3 rpm LPs (“Long Plays”) and 45 rpm singles.  Before that, 78s were simply called records. 

78s only hold about 4 minutes of music per side.  This is because the record groove is quite large compared to “microgroove” LPs and 45s.  So while 78s will play on equipment designed for LPs and 45s, it is probably best to think of 78s as a completely different format that needs dedicated equipment designed for their playback. 78s have a largely undeserved bad reputation when it comes to sound quality, because many people try to play them using equipment not meant for them.

When playing 78s, it is best to have equipment that can deal with these three issues:

  1. Speed:  Obviously the turntable must spin at 78 rpm.
  2. Stylus:  Because 78s have a record groove that is around seven times larger than microgroove records, the stylus should also be much larger in order to pick up the music correctly.  A stylus used for microgroove records will fall to the bottom of a 78 rpm record, so you will hear mostly noise and dirt. The music is up on the sides of the groove.
  3. Equalization:  There is not actually a true “natural” representation of sound waves on an LP or 45 rpm record.   The lower notes (frequencies) are put on a record in a compressed fashion and are then de-compressed upon playback.  Your phono preamp is responsible for the de-compression on playback.  It is the process of compressing the low notes that allows LPs to hold as much as 25 minutes on a side of a record, because the groove is so much narrower.  While 78s do require some equalization, it is very different than that used on micro-groove records.  So playing 78s back through the phono input on your stereo makes for an inaccurate and unnatural sound.  

For these reasons, the best way to accurately play 78s is on equipment that was engineered properly for 78s. Keep in mind that recordings from any era were designed around the abilities of the format (record) and the electronics of that era.   Therefore, using the appropriate vintage equipment to play these recordings will yield a sound much closer to their natural origins. Mixing recordings and the electronics from different eras often produces a suboptimal sound.  Sound Exchange is happy to provide playback systems for 78s that are both cost effective and sound good.  

78 rpm records also have a reputation for breaking easily.  This is largely true when compared to vinyl records (note: some 78s are also made of vinyl).  But shellac 78s do hold one big advantage over vinyl LPs and 45s, in that they are much less susceptible to scratches and can still sound good even when they are visibly damaged. This was true even for 78s when they were new: they just didn’t ever look quite as good (shiny and smooth) as LPs, but they still sound fine when played with the right equipment.

Sound Exchange to create new superstore location in Pinellas Park    

In late September, we will begin merging our Brandon and Pinellas Park stores into a new 6,400 square foot building at the corner of 66th St. N. and 86th Ave. N. in Pinellas Park.

Jim and Ron, who started the Brandon store together in 1992, are both eager to spend semi-retirement in racing cars (Jim) and restoring vintage stereo equipment (Ron). They, along with the rest of us at Sound Exchange, thank our Brandon-area customers for 25 years of patronage and hope that you will venture to the Tampa or Pinellas Park stores in the near future.

The new Pinellas Park building is in the midst of renovations. In late September, the Brandon store fixtures and inventory will be the first to move into the new space, followed later by the current Pinellas Park store.

With the new store, we will be able to offer Pinellas County the same depth of selection — at the same low prices — that we have provided in Hillsborough County for decades.

Members of the Brandon store and current Pinellas store staff have been offered jobs in the Tampa or new Pinellas Park locations. The existing Pinellas Park location in Park Plaza at Park Blvd. N. and 49th St. N. will stock close-outs and surplus product.

To welcome Brandon-area customers to our other locations, we are offering those of you with Brandon, Valrico, Riverview, Lithia, Seffner, and Plant City addresses 10% off purchases at the Tampa and Pinellas Park stores, from September 15 until the end 2017. Just show your driver’s license at the register for the discount.

The Tampa, Brandon, and Pinellas stores are all in prime buying mode as we gear up to fill the new location with quality CDs, vinyl records, Blu-Rays, DVDs, tapes, video games, vintage stereo equipment, non-fiction books, collectible figures, and comics. Now’s the perfect time to put cash in your pocket.

Thank you ALL for your business as we continue to evolve in our 30th year.

Intro to the Classic Vinyl Listening Experience

Welcome to the Sound Exchange reference guide about vinyl records. On these pages we will explore any and all topics that are relevant to the enjoyment of vinyl records and specifically to the main goal of understanding and enhancing your own Classic Vinyl Listening Experience.

Topics will include the history of vinyl records, record care, record collecting, the equipment necessary for a proper listening experience, as well as what it requires of the listener to fully enjoy the Classic Vinyl Listening Experience.

The Emergence of Long Play (1948)

As I will define it, the Classic Vinyl Listening Experience began with the emergence of the 10” and 12”, 33 1/3 rpm, Long Play, Micro-Groove, Vinyl Record in 1948, and its smaller sibling, the 7” 45 rpm record, at about that same time.

I choose to start here because this is the technology that provided the two most important attributes of the listening experience that we seek: a sufficiently long playing time, and higher quality sound reproduction (High Fidelity).

Modern Long Play Records

Magical Mystery Tour

The modern long play, micro-groove record brought to the market had a tremendous impact on artistic creativity.

Artists were now free to create music that could last 20 minutes or longer, rather than just fill out a three-minute single.  And although classical music was never limited by time, virtually all “popular” music had to fit into four minutes or less to be commercially sale-able.

The Modern Vinyl Record (1960s)

Let’s define what is meant by the term the modern vinyl record.

It has a relatively long playing time and does so while reproducing sound in what is called high fidelity.

High fidelity, or Hi-Fi for short, simply means that the device is capable of reproducing sound accurately throughout the full hearing range of the human ear, and does so realistically, i.e., without introducing significant quantities of noise or distortion.

That is not to say that every record meets this definition.

The Classic Vinyl Listening Experience Timeline

So let’s put all of this information in the form of a timeline:

timeline

So where does the sweet spot lie? Pick a time, all things considered, which you would say represented the pinnacle of the Classic Vinyl Listening Experience.

  • You could make a good argument for the 1950s and early 1960s, with the advent of the modern record, tube equipment, and the jazz and early rock n’ roll music of the time.
  • It would also be very easy to choose the early 1970s as a timeframe when affordable, high-quality electronics and high-quality vinyl records could be paired with some of the most outstanding music that was ever created.
  • And certainly an argument can be made for choosing today and what is currently available, if you have the money to buy the best of what the past 60 years has to offer.

So this becomes our challenge: to assemble the necessary equipment and a record library so that you can achieve the Classic Vinyl Listening Experience as you choose to define it, and then sit down and actively enjoy a “side” of your very favorite music.

Which is better, CDs or Vinyl Records?

Perhaps you have heard of the debate about which is better, vinyl records or CDs. This question can be reduced to studying their differences. When playing vinyl records you are typically listening to an analog representation of a musical performance.  When playing a CD you are typically listening to a digital representation of a musical performance.

Analog Chart

“Analog” sound is natural sound as it is created and heard in our daily lives. We hear analog sounds as smooth, continuous wave of air pressure pulses (vibrations).

How Sound is Created and Heard

This discussion begins with the creation of sound itself.  Everything in nature that creates a sound creates an analog sound, which also happens to be the only kind of sound that we can hear.  And don’t forget the importance of air because without air we have no sound.  It is the air pressure pulses in the form of vibrations that allow our ears to hear sound.

Only in a studio using digital sound synthesis being directly recorded into a digital recorder is a digital sound actually created(but not heard). Even then you cannot actually hear it until it is converted to an analog sound and reproduced via a speaker.

Analog to Digital Conversion

Analog Conversion

Have you ever seen this displayed on a CD or a vinyl record?

“This is a pure digital recording”

Well let’s stop right there.  First you must realize that a digital recording can be converted to analog for playback on vinyl, and that an analog recording can be converted to digital so it can be played back on a CD.

What about CDs?

Let’s talk about CDs.

First you must remember that the specification for CDs was developed way back in 1979. At that time the cost of electronics was quite high compared to what it is today, particularly as it relates to their speed.

The CD specification just barely covers the audio spectrum that the human ear can hear, that is, 20 cycles to 20,000 cycles per second.  This represents the lowest and highest sounds that a typical ear can hear although many of us hear though a substantially narrower range, and a few of us can hear beyond this range.

My Thoughts on Digital Vs. Analog Sound

The vinyl record is my preferred media for active listening to recordings made in the 1950s and into the 1980s.

As discussed earlier, analog recordings played back on vinyl records add a certain amount of their own “noise” to the listening experience.  Some of this noise is not desirable such as the tics and pops associated with a record that is no longer in mint condition.  But it also adds a certain “warmth” and “life” that is missing from CDs.

To help explain my opinions in that regard I have several analogies and examples:

Vintage Car

Listening to vinyl as opposed to a CD is like looking at the paint on your car before and after you wax it. Vinyl sounds like a fresh wax job looks. It didn’t change the basic color but it enriches it making it fuller and more vibrant and full of life.

Another way of describing the difference between the sound of vinyl and the sound of CDs is to describe it in terms of visible and non-visible light rays;

Ultraviolet light is not visible to the human eye, but if you place an ultraviolet filter in front of your eyes you can see the difference made by removing ultraviolet light. I think of CDs as possessing a filter that does not allow all of the “colors” of the audio spectrum to be heard.  Perhaps that is good, or perhaps it is bad, but it is different, and I prefer the full spectrum of sound that vinyl provides.

Here is one last way of describing the fuller, richer sound that vinyl provides;

The CD specification stops abruptly at 20,000 cycles per second (20 KHz) whereas vinyl can reach all the way up to 45 KHz and beyond. Sounds above 20 KHz are simply not present on a CD which is OK in itself since it is above the hearing range that most humans can hear.  But that does not mean that the sounds above 20 KHz do not affect the sounds that are within the audible range. These higher tones can reflect tones back into the audible range.  This has the effect of enriching the sound that we can hear.

An imperfect analogy is to take a pure 440 Hz tone and compare it to its equivalent primary pitch on a piano which is referred to as A-440 (A below middle C). A pure tone of 440 Hz is dull and lifeless. The same fundamental tone on a piano causes many other “sympathetic” tones to be heard and for harmonics of the 440 Hz string to be amplified or augmented by other strings on the piano. So these inaudible pure tones above 20 KHz that are present on a vinyl record do have an effect on what you hear when playing back a vinyl record by affecting or generating tones that are audible.

One last augmentation should be mentioned and that is the sound that you hear when playing music back through a tube based preamp and amplifier when compared to transistor based amplifiers. Again, it adds “color” to the sound which you either like or not, but I do.

That’s my story and I am sticking to it.

Stereo Recordings

Four Track Stereophonic 1722W

Any discussion about music and sound reproduction will eventually make reference to how it is presented to the listener. Of course, it all began with monophonic, but over the years technology has provided more and more choices starting with stereophonic, followed by a host of multi-phonic formats like quadraphonic, Dolby 5.1 and 6.1. Monophonic (mono) has just one prerecorded channel. Stereophonic sound (stereo) has two distinct channels, left and right.

Stereophonic Recordings (1960s)

Out of Balance Stereophonic Recording

Regarding stereo recordings, when stereo first came out it was a brand new world and exactly how to represent a recording in a stereo format was very subjective. Artists and engineers had varying opinions as to how much stereo effect (directional effect) was appropriate. Consequently, many early stereo recordings sound very gimmick-y and unrealistic with too much differentiation between the left and right channels.

The Record Player

This brings us to the record player, or should I say “turntable.” There is a difference between the two.

“For the record,” a record player is generally thought of as a turntable with a built-in amplifier and speaker(s). Portable units are typically record players.

A turntable is simply just that: a turning table to place the record on, and a pickup device (cartridge and stylus) that fits into the record groove, reads the information on the record, and generates a very small electrical signal to the preamp. (See forthcoming discussion about preamps.) The signal then travels on to the power amp for further amplification, and ultimately sound reproduction via speakers or headphones.

For our purposes regarding the Classic Vinyl Listening Experience, let’s assume that we are referring to a turntable that is capable of providing high fidelity sound reproduction.

Turntables are considered non-portable devices in that the more expensive and elaborate units require a fair degree of assembly time for setting them up properly and securing them in their place. In a word, turntables are intended to be instruments, but their quality can range from toy-like objects to high precision devices. The resulting sound reproduction ranges from horrible (cheapo-cheapo units) to exquisite (high quality units).

Reducing Unwanted Noise

Bomb Shelter

Phono CartridgeThe phono cartridge contributes to unwanted noise as well. It is a sound transducer and can be thought of as a specialized type of microphone in that it picks up the vibrations from the stylus as it tracks the record groove and responds to its encoded vibrations.

Unfortunately it can also transmit the vibrations from any noise that it picks up.  This includes your footsteps on a wooden floor or any noise including your voice!  You can actually record your voice by talking very loudly and very closely to the phono cartridge.

Choosing a Quality Turntable

Technics Ad

So how do you know how good a turntable really is regardless of cost?

First, heavy is good! Next, turn the turntable on and have the platter spin.  Then lift the stylus up from the record surface using the lifter and then slowly turn your amplifier up.  The better the turntable the less noise you will hear.

Any noise that you do hear is coming from the turntable or possibly the preamp or amplifier.

To eliminate the amplifier and preamp, disconnect the turntable from the rest of the system, slowly turn up the amplifier and see what noise is left.  Any noise that disappeared is due to the turntable.  Of course nothing is quite that simple but it is a reasonable test.

Turntable Belt Replacement

Most turntables these days are either belt drive or direct drive. Occasionally, belt drive turntables require turntable belt replacement. This timeframe can vary from a few years to twenty years or more depending on the belt’s quality, turntable usage, and environmental conditions. Although there are a handful of common belts that many turntables use, there are hundreds of different belts out there, and it is very important that you purchase the correct belt for your specific turntable. Incorrect belts will not usually perform properly and can even cause long-term damage to your turntable.

A turntable will generally let you know when it needs a new belt, because it will a. not play, b. play too slowly, or c. not perform certain functions such as speed changing (33 to 45 to 78). Old belts can get very stretchy and eventually turn into a sticky gooey mess that is very difficult to remove. Alternatively, they can simply crumble into dust.

A drive belt for a turntable, cassette deck, or any other powered device is designed and engineered to perform properly for a particular application, and belts have many different qualities. An incorrect belt may cause a device to play to fast or too slow; it may cause undue stress on the motor which may cause it to fail very prematurely; or it may cause a turntable to not change speeds when it has a physical method of changing speeds. Belts have just a little bit of stretch to them and place a carefully determined amount of pressure or stress on the turntable mechanism. In order for a belt to work properly, its circumference is the single most important dimension, but its height and thickness also play an important role in whether it works properly with your particular turntable. So just because you can make a belt stretch to fit your turntable doesn’t make it the right belt, and doing so may cause problems that will impact your listening pleasure and operation of the turntable.

Sound Exchange stocks the most common turntable belts for most common turntables. But if you have a turntable with an unusual belt size, we feel confident that we can locate the correct belt for your turntable. Common belts are generally $15 to $18, and the less common belts being a bit more (although some are actually less).

All about Phono Cartridges

At the heart of any turntable system is the phono cartridge. The stylus (needle) attached to the phono cartridge must follow the V-shaped groove on a record as accurately as possible to produce the best possible sound. The rapid back and forth motion of stylus in the groove creates vibrations. These vibrations are then converted into an electrical signal by the phono cartridge. These electrical signals are then amplified and processed by your amplifier and are ultimately heard through your speakers. This is similar process to that of a microphone which turns the vibrations of a voice into an electrical signal.

Since the late 1960s nearly all phono cartridges are of the magnetic type, which – due to superior sound quality – replaced its predecessor, the ceramic cartridge. Ceramic cartridge based turntables are still present in most vintage console units (furniture based stereos), portable record players, and any low cost record players of the day, and are still found in inexpensive record playing systems made today by companies like Crosley.

There are two types of magnetic cartridges in today’s market; most are called “moving magnet,” while the less common and more expensive types are called “moving coil.” To understand the difference, one needs to look inside the phono cartridge itself. You will find copper coils (tiny round loops of copper wire) with a magnet inside the coil. The magnet and the stylus are both attached on opposite ends of a pipe (called the cantilever) so as the stylus moves back and forth in the groove, the magnet moves on the other end inside the coil. You may recall from science class that a magnet moving within a coil creates an electrical current. That’s your music! All that’s left is to amplify it.

So as you probably already figured out, when a phono cartridge has a “moving magnet” cartridge, the magnet is moving within the coil. “Moving coil” cartridges have the coil moving around a stationary magnet. So what’s the difference between the two types? It gets down to the accuracy of the stylus being able to follow the record groove. Moving coils can be made so that the moving portion of the cartridge is lighter than that within a moving magnet cartridge. When the moving portion is lighter it is more nimble and agile and can follow the very fast motions back and forth within the record groove more accurately. So they sound better! Alas, moving coil cartridges cost a lot more than moving magnet cartridges. Not only that, but you need a special phono preamp, because moving coil cartridges provide much less output than a moving magnet cartridge and need additional amplification beyond what is found in most phono preamps.

Moving magnet cartridges cost from $30 on up. Moving coil cartridges generally start around $300, plus you need to spend another $150 or more on a special moving coil phono preamp, so there is a big cost difference. How much better do moving coil cartridges sound, and should you consider getting one? It only makes sense if you have a really good turntable that is very quiet and very accurate in its operation (see our articles about turntables). One point of note: Some companies that make moving coil cartridges sell what they call a “high output” moving coil cartridge, one whose output level is similar to a moving magnet cartridge so that you don’t need to buy the high output phono preamp. They do this by adding more loops of copper wire to the coils, which will in turn generate a higher output. But of course this increases its weight to about the same weight as a moving magnet cartridge, so you end up no better off, in my opinion. But these high output moving coil cartridges do sell!

Moving coil, moving magnet, and ceramic cartridges are all electrically different from one another and are not interchangeable without other considerations. This is because in most cases amplifiers are designed to work with only one type of phono cartridge. Only on high priced, high quality systems will you find switch setting for both moving magnet and moving coil cartridges. This is a great feature to look for if you ever have hopes to upgrade your sound system. Also, I occasionally see amplifiers that were made in the late 1960s that supported both ceramic cartridges and moving magnet cartridges via two separate phono inputs.

Another consideration when buying a cartridge (and stylus that comes with it) is the shape of the stylus itself. The names for these shapes include conical, spherical, elliptical, line contact, nude, Shibata, and others. It all has to do with how the stylus tip actually fits the record groove. The basic stylus is the conical (aka spherical) and basically has a round contact patch. As you move up the cost spectrum for stylus, the shape of the stylus is further refined and optimized for better sound reproduction. Many of these refinements improve the high frequency reproduction while also reducing record wear. So if your record collection consists of mint condition, audiophile quality records, and your turntable is also a high end machine, you should give consideration to investing in an expensive stylus that can extract the sound quality contained on your records. But conversely, if your record collection is a more typical mix of records in both condition and quality, a cheaper cartridge (and stylus) can actually perform better. I often recommend a very sturdy (cheap) cartridge for customers who are playing older, scratched-up records because you can put more tonearm pressure onto the record with a cheap cartridge, so it sounds better and doesn’t skip! The benefit of the extra tracking force will yield better playback than spending lots of money on a high-end cartridge that is very delicate and is expecting nearly perfect vinyl.

Turntables and styli can vary in quality ranging from a toy to a high precision instrument. The maximum quality of the sound reproduction that your turntable can provide is determined by its phono cartridge. The rest of the turntable can only take away sound quality by adding unwanted noise. High quality turntables reduce sound quality by the least amount. This is because they contribute very little noise due to having very quiet and accurate motors, main bearings, tonearms, etc. Remember that a phono cartridge essentially behaves like a microphone, and it picks up sounds from any source within the turntable or in the room, both good and bad.

Keep in mind: Regardless of the type of phono cartridge you have on your turntable, your system requires a phono preamp somewhere in the circuit. Any amplifier that has a “PHONO” input has a phono preamp built into it. Some newer turntables have them built into the turntable. If a phono preamp is not in your amp or turntable then you need a separate, external phono preamp. These are available from about $30.00 up to thousands of dollars. The turntable plugs into the phono preamp which in turn plugs into any input on your amplifier.

Magnetic cartridges are simple to replace because most have been standardized in how they mount to the turntable headshell. “Universal mount” and “P-mount” are the most common, although there are some cartridges that do not adhere to these standard sizes. They tend to be much more expensive and difficult to find. Conversely, ceramic cartridges had no standards and there are literally thousands of varieties. So if you have a vintage based system you must obtain the exact make and model cartridge as a replacement. Although they are not that hard to find and are not that expensive, they are difficult to properly identify as many look identical. Expert assistance is usually a good idea. Sound Exchange has that expertise if and when you need it.

Vinyl records offer the potential for exquisite sound reproduction that can far exceed that of CD, but can do so only if all the pieces are present: high quality records, high quality turntable, and a high quality cartridge (and stylus).

Classic Stereo Equipment

Stereo equipment is one more significant variable that can greatly affect the Classic Vinyl Listening Experience. In addition to the quality issues surrounding turntables and preamps, amplifiers, receivers, and speakers also greatly affect overall quality of sound reproduction.  It is worth reminding you that these variables affect all forms of music playback, including CDs and tape recordings.

Phono Preamps: Amplification and Equalization

Behringer PP400 Phono Preamp

When the discussion turns to the phono preamps (short for pre-amplifier) we are really getting down into minute details of the record groove in order to understand its role and its importance. It is essential that you understand the role of the phono preamp as it will affect the decisions that you will make about purchasing equipment and ultimately the pleasure derived from your “Classic Vinyl Listening Experience”.

Purchasing Quality Preamps

Marantz 4240 AM/FM Stereo with Preamp

Many amplifiers and receivers (a receiver is an AM/FM tuner and amplifier built in the same piece of equipment) have phono preamps built into them.

Like all components of a stereo system there are significant variations in quality in the preamps, which has significant effects on the quality of the playback of your records.

Preamps can be purchased as a separate stand-alone component for as little as $20 or you can spend $3000 or more!  It should be obvious by now that a phono preamp is really, really important for proper playback of vinyl records.  So let’s discuss preamps for a while.

On First Pressings

Conrad Poirier [Public domain or Public domain], via Wikimedia Commons

Some people buy records simply for their entertainment value, while others buy them for reasons above and beyond entertainment. Within the record-collecting community there are many styles of collecting, each focusing on different aspects. This article will focus on collectible records known as “first pressings” and also describe how test pressings and white label promos fit into the picture.

Before I start, I will tell you that I will pose at least as many questions about “first pressings” as I answer. This is not an exact science. There is no one source for this information, but rather it is based on the collective observations of many collectors. Some facts are firmly established, while others are more nebulous. We are all constantly obtaining and learning more about this topic.

Let’s start at the very beginning and realize that when we begin to talk about first pressings, we are really talking about documenting the output of the record album manufacturing process. Typically, a first pressing is defined as what the actual record album looked like when it first came off the manufacturing line. This includes the record, jacket, inner sleeve, inserts, posters, and many other small items of interest. Any change from that original record and its packaging, and it could be referred to as a “second pressing.” That may seem like a pretty clear-cut definition, but in practice it can be more complicated. Start with the fact that the record album itself does not specify its pressing number or give any indication that something has changed. If the entire manufacturing process had been carefully controlled and documented down to every minute detail, then it could be said with much more certainty exactly what pressing a particular record is. However, that never occurred. Given the significant number of changes that have occurred for many record albums, it could quickly become a topic of hair-splitting minutiae. Some things just don’t much matter to collectors, while other things do. Indeed, some details and changes are best defined as variations, oddities, rarities, etc.

When looking at any manufacturing process, a steady stream of output can be interrupted by problems that could cause a change to the end product. While some types of manufactured goods must meet highly-defined standards, the objective with producing vinyl records was to get a product of reasonable quality out the door and into the awaiting public as quickly as possible. So when it comes to making records, let’s say that production is sailing along smoothly except that they have run out of record label blanks (stock labels before the imprinting of the album specifics). They could shut down the line and wait for more correct ones to arrive, or they could scrounge up some of the old style labels that went unused when they switched label designs and use those. (Keep those record presses rolling!) Since record labels are one of the primary means of identifying which pressing number a record is, using old label blanks can cause a “temporal disturbance” and make a certain record look as if it were produced at an earlier time. Examples of this type abound. Sometimes you find records with different labels on the front and the back of the same record, or sometimes you find that two records from a two-record set have different labels. Now consider that a record manufacturing plant could have multiple manufacturing and assembly lines. Also, many companies had multiple manufacturing plants that were regionally located. Beyond that, when a particular record became a super-hot seller, a record company could enlist the help of outside manufacturing companies to help satisfy demand. So without further belaboring the point, there can be many significant variations and some very minor variations that could occur and can cause confusion amongst collectors as to what pressing a particular record is. So even if these all could be properly sequenced and numbered, at some point it becomes fairly meaningless.

Another variable in practical terms is whether or not the artist or record company is highly collectable. Slight changes or variations for many records are relatively unimportant, but for groups like the Beatles it can cause the collector to delve deeply into minutiae. If you turn back the hands of time to the 1970s, a “first pressing” of Meet the Beatles was pretty much defined as a pressing on the Capitol “rainbow” label, a label so named because of the band of the color spectrum that encircles the perimeter of the record label. But as time has passed, and numerous subtle changes have been identified and time-sequenced with some sense of accuracy, you find references to whether each song used ASCAP or BMI copyright identifiers after the song title on the record label and jacket. You can now see descriptions such as “no BMI references” or “three BMI references.”

So what makes this information become useful or burdensome? While it is noteworthy, does it really matter much? It certainly raises the question as to why anyone really cares about “first pressings” to begin with! So let’s ask the question: Why do collectors care about first pressings?

It is my opinion that if you could absolutely identify a particular record as being the very first copy of a record album to ever be produced, then it could be extremely valuable to the collector market. Why? There are two reasons: this would be the closest that you could get to the artist and the actual performance via record, and it would potentially be the best sounding copy to ever be produced.

So with the goal of trying to find the earliest copies that were ever produced, collectors are more and more paying attention to the information that is physically etched onto the vinyl record itself in the blank area – known as the “trail-off” – between the record grooves and the record label. Manufacturing information is etched onto the mold (stamper) that actually produced the record. Each manufacturer placed whatever was meaningful to them in that area. One item of interest was to identify the stamper number that made the actual record. This was done for quality control purposes, but the avid collector can use this information to his benefit. The assumption is that the lower the stamper number, the closer to the beginning of production you get. In many cases, stamper numbers can be ascertained by studying this trail-off information. RCA records used a format where the catalog number had a suffix attached to it to identify the stamper number. An example is 2345-1S, where the catalog number is LSP-2345, and the 1S is the first stamper.

You may ask why collectors care about stamper numbers. From a sound quality perspective, the best possible sounding recording exists on the “master recording.” As copies are produced via the extensive and elaborate manufacturing process (see the video of “How Records Are Made” elsewhere on our website), there is a very slow, steady degradation of the sound quality due to the fact of handling and copying. So records made from the very first stamper should sound the best, albeit by a small incremental difference. The manufacturer made thousands of records from the first stamper and then replaced it for quality reasons with a fresh stamper called stamper number two! This process goes on ad infinitum. Now if you are really paying attention here, you will realize that the manufacturer changed the stamper because it was getting old and was not producing an end product as good as a new stamper would produce. So the first record produced from a stamper sounded better than the last record produced by that stamper. But also you can see that the first record produced from the second stamper probably sounded better than the last record produced from the first stamper, or they would not have changed stampers! But unfortunately, there is no sequential pressing number available from each stamper. So while it is reasonable to state that the lower stamper numbers sound the better than higher stamper numbers, you still have to listen to the record and compare two copies to see if there is a difference and one is better than the other. Low stamper numbers are not an assurance of the best quality, just a tendency towards the best quality. Listening still trumps all.

Again the question is why collectors care about this. From what you’ve learned, you can probably see that the earliest pressings of a record are likely those will those that sound the best. While these early copies do not sound as good as the original master recording, they are the best available quality recordings that you can buy. But what happens as time passes? The original master recording degrades from age and use, while the vinyl record – if it has been handled properly and had little to no play, generally degrades very little. Master recordings can get damaged, lost, or even destroyed, which could leave our first pressing vinyl record the best sounding copy of that performance on the planet! So now you know why collectors care about first pressings! The copy of a record that you hold in your hand could be the best quality example of a performance in existence. And if you really care about it, you will want to find it, protect it, and cherish it for what it might be.

So what is the definition of a “first pressing”? Is it what the album looked like before any changes occurred, or before a label change, or only produced from the first stamper, or yet another variation on any these? It varies in how the term is used and, frankly, cannot be taken too literally. When looking at records at our stores, or any place where more information about a record is provided, pressing number needs to be taken as a helpful indicator of its age and potential quality rather than an absolute definitive fact.

If you have really understood this article, then mentioning the terms “white label promo” or “test pressing” should really light up your eyes. Test pressings are just that: a pre-release version of an album sent to a handful of industry insiders for their review and comment. Obviously these are really the first copies to be pressed and may actually be unique if the recorded material was changed in any way before its commercial release. White label promos are generally the next copies pressed. They are almost without exception identical to the commercially released “stock copies.” Promos are sent out to radio stations, DJs, newspapers, and magazines in hopes of getting a favorable review or some airplay. They are more common for newer artists the record companies are trying to promote, which is why you don’t see that many promos for the well-established artists. While white is the most common color for the labels of promotional albums, the term “white label promo” is not to be taken literally. Special promotional labels came in many different colors, some with the standard label but stamped with “Promotional Copy,” “Preview Copy,” or “DJ Copy.” So why were these records distributed with a non-standard record label?  Simply so that they could be identified by the record companies as a giveaway item so that record stores could not return them to the record companies for credit.  Nor were they supposed to be sold at retail.

It is easy to understand why test pressings and promotional albums command a premium to the collector market, especially for the big named groups. But for many really obscure artists that had no commercial success there could actually be more promotional copies in circulation than stock copies! So while promotional copies make fantastic collectables, keep this in mind when it comes to their selling price.

Grading the Condition of Records

At Sound Exchange we use visual grading (as opposed to play grading) for our records. We do not grade jackets, only the vinyl itself. On our tags for bagged records (typically those $5.99 and above), you will see a grading listed as one of the following:

  • Sealed: Never been opened; still enclosed in its original shrink wrap.
  • M-: Mint Minus is the highest rating we give a used record. Also referred to as near-mint, it looks nearly new.
  • VG++: Very Good Plus Plus means there may be one or two minor, inaudible marks or minor paper scuffing, but it is in excellent shape.
  • VG+: Very Good Plus indicates there are some scratches or minor groove wear, but nothing that should be audible. This will play great.
  • VG: A record rated Very Good has a significant number of inaudible scratches, or one or more scratches that you will be able to hear during play (pops or clicks), or more significant groove wear, or some pressing imperfections like bubbling. Still, nothing that should cause a skip. This is the first grading on the scale that allows for a scratch that can be felt/heard with the tip of your fingernail.
  • VG-: Very Good Minus indicates a significant number of scratches that will be audible. Still, nothing that should cause a skip. You’ll only find rarer records with this rating; normally, records in this condition would be in the budget bin or not sold at all.
  • : You won’t usually find records rated down the scale at “Good” in our stores. If you do see records rated Good at Sound Exchange, it generally tells you that a. it’s a very rare record, or b. the cover is rare, and we want to offer that for sale even if the accompanying record doesn’t meet our quality standards. An example would be the lenticular cover from first pressings of the Rolling Stones’ Their Satanic Majesties Request.

We consider both the quantity and quality of marks when grading a record. A record with a single mark that can be felt with the tip of your fingernail will almost always be graded lower than a record with three similarly sized marks that can not be felt. But defects are cumulative, so a record with eight marks that can’t be felt will be graded lower than the record with two similarly sized marks that can’t be felt. No two records have exactly the same marks or wear; there is always some subjectivity involved in grading. Two VG records can look very different from one another. Therefore, grading should get you into a range of condition, but you should inspect each record to make your own conclusion.

Note that grading standards do not change based on the age of the record. In other words, there’s no such thing as “VG+ for its age.” The same criteria used in grading a record pressed in 1965 exist for one pressed in 2015.

A record doesn’t always play like you think it will, based on how the vinyl appears visually. You’ll find that records pressed in the 1950s-60s, for example, often sound much better than they look. And of course, performance is also dependent on external factors such as the quality of your turntable and proper weighting of your tonearm.

While there are certainly standards for each grade, two people might look at a record and assign it different grades. We currently have three vinyl graders at Sound Exchange. We do our best to “calibrate” with each other so that our customers can rely on what a particular grade means across the three stores.

Customers are welcome to take any bagged record to a clerk at the counter to inspect the vinyl for themselves before purchasing. We especially encourage this with new customers so they get comfortable with our grading system.

Record Storage

Always store your records in a cool, dry, dark environment in an upright position (never flat) that is high off the ground, and that provides some airflow around them.

Ideally each record would be stored in a polypropylene or Mylar plastic bag, with the record stored in its own poly inner sleeve outside of the record jacket.   The closer that you can come to these ideals the longer your records should last, which can be a lifetime, or even become a family heirloom.

If you practice these guidelines on a daily basis and on a long term basis you will get the most possible enjoyment from your collection.  You will come to learn that light scratches on good old vinyl is nothing to be overly concerned about and that with proper care and cleaning that they can actually come to sound better with repeated use.

That’s Not a Scratch on Your Vinyl – It’s Dirt!

Dirt and static electricity may cause good records to sound “scratchy”. A proper cleaning will remove dirt and static electricity from the vinyl. You may be very surprised to hear how good your records sound once cleaned.  What you thought was noise caused by scratches may disappear.

An old or worn stylus will cause your records to sound bad or sound scratchy. This is because a worn stylus is getting down to the bottom of the record groove where there is no music. Understand that a stylus begins life shaped like an ellipse (rounded) and then wears down to a point and falls further down into the groove until it hits bottom.  This is bad for your records. The music resides on the sides of the record groove and is where a new stylus (needle) sits while playing.

Illustration of Wear and Tear from the Stylus

Record Cleaning Solution

Wet cleaning of vinyl records is the best way if not the only way to really get them clean and to get them free of static electricity.

A mild household window cleaner does a nice job because it has all of the necessary chemical components to get your records clean.  Let’s call that product “Windex” for simplicity, although not all Windex –like products are suitable.

I prefer to recommend the Vinegar based cleaners rather than the alcohol or ammonia based products as there is a commonly held suspicion that alcohol and ammonia can cause long term damage to vinyl (although I have never seen evidence of that).

Window cleaning solutions contain a surfactant, which is a chemical agent that breaks “surface tension” and allows the solution to really get down into the bottom of the grooves and therefore removes more dirt.

While many of the commercially available record cleaning solutions probably do a good job, it’s likely that they’re no better than a bottle of Windex… yet they cost a lot more!

How to Clean a Record

Use plenty  of solution and really get the record wet while being very, very careful to keep the solution off of the record label, as it will cause the paper label to “rise” or stain the label, etc, and it will never look like new again.

Apply the Cleaning Solution to a Cloth or Record Preener

The best way to apply the cleaning solution is to apply it to the cleaning device that you are going to use, such as a soft cloth, record preener (brush), etc. I recommend a very soft, clean cotton material such as a baby’s diaper (old school, washable type).

Salvaging Vinyl

An old trick of “last resort” is to actually play a record while wet.

For reasons not fully understood (by me), doing this “quiets” the record substantially (removes the noise caused by scratches) seemingly without reducing fidelity.  I recommend using only water without any chemical, as the chemical may cause harm to your stylus and cartridge.  This trick is best used when trying to extract the best possible sound quality from an old, mostly worn out record when you are recording it.  Expect your stylus to be dirty and in need of cleaning upon completion, which should be done immediately before it dries.

Really dirty old records will require several cleanings and playings before they yield their best sound reproduction.

If you are really serious about playing many old and dirty records you should consider getting a very sturdy stylus/cartridge such as the Stanton DJ series.  These can stand up to the abuse of older, damaged records much better than the more expensive and sensitive stylus’.

Surface Treatments

I do not have an opinion regarding products that “treat” the surface of a record (such as “Last”), nor with cleaning products ( like Revirginizer) that are like a “face peel” for records because I have never used them myself, probably because I have not felt the need for them.